Isaiah Mahlangu
Kosi Bay
I never grew up with my grandfather, so I treated an old neighbour, Phindela,
like one. He told me stories about life in Kosi Bay. Retrospectively, I
am intrigued about how people travelled and communicated. People took cross-boarder-trips
to seek work, shop and visit families. People shopped in Manguzi as well
as Zithundu and Nsalamanga in Mozambique. Women carried baskets on their
heads and babies on their backs.
Phindela told stories about travelling to Lourenco Marques (now Maputo)
on foot to work. Travelling in groups provided security. Padkos, water and
sticks were important items for travellers. They relied on the sun and stars
for navigation. This taught Phindela some travelling tricks ‘ To avoid
making a U-turn in the morning, we stuck a stick on the ground pointing
to the direction we were last travelling before climbing up the tree to
sleep at night.’ With time migration trends changed as TEBA opened
a labour-recruitment-centre in Manguzi.
I assume, during migration, wild animals made the first tracks. Maybe the
Tonga Tembes followed these tracks from south of Mozambique to settle in
Maputaland. Missionaries and traders turned these tracks into roads. Evolution
of roads linked Maputaland to the outside world. My first journey from Manguzi
to Empangeni in 1984 took two days in a bus and train.
Telecommunications in the late 1980s were still rudimentary; only two public
phones in Manguzi. The quickest communication was telegrams. If the matter
was not urgent, families waited months for letters from Johannesburg.
Locals had a means to communicate. No offence, Reverend Mooney used to say
‘…if you cannot telephone, tell-a-woman’. Stories told
to women spread like runaway fire as people met to greet and gossip. The
then Radio Bantu kept locals informed.
The new Lubombo SDI road has already improved transportation and communication.
Travelling time between Manguzi and Empangeni is reduced to three hours.
If he were rise from the dead Phindela would mistake tar roads, telephone
and power lines for wrinkles on the aging face of Maputaland. No Phindela,
Maputaland is rejuvenated.


As it was: the old and muddy road
Off to market along the new road

The proud craftsman selling his work by the roadside
A woman carries beer back home
Denise Slabbert
I visited the St Lucia area four years ago with Minister Valli Moosa. to
write a story on development with a focus on the Lubombo Road. I saw the bulldozers,
chatted to workers and we had our picture taken under an enormous tree next
to the road.
Moosa told us, rather passionately, that the road was being built according
to best-practice conservation principles. He also talked about how the road
would change the lives of the locals.
Returning recently with Andrew Zaloumis to do a follow-up story, I have to
agree. The Lubombo Road has indeed changed life for the better – although
perhaps these changes are not that immediately visible.
Our first stop was to pay respects to a Shembe Church community during their
Saturday afternoon service under a tree near the road. The images made a great
picture: the wizened face of the preacher teaching his wisdom, with the somewhat
busy road in the background.
We then moved on and to stopped overseas traveller, Karl Wardle for a quick
picture on his motorbike. He has been moving around Africa for the past few
months: all leathers and dust with tins of pilchards on the back of his bike,
called Mavis.
We spoke briefly David Gcina, transporting his load of mielies: “The
road really changed things. It is definitely improving our business and it
also helps local people. If they need a hospital, if someone is sick, the
road is smooth. Before it was gravel and you couldn’t get anywhere.’
We slowly made our way to Kosi Bay, where we stopped overnight to visit the
Nkovokeni community. Andrew and his wonderful family have close links with
this community, and were invited to attend the wake [Ukwembulwa Kwentshe]
for Linah Tembe’s late husband. It was at this event that I first met
Mshwayisa Tembe, the delightful patriarch referred to by Andrew’s young
son, Emmanuel Mshwayisa, as `grandfather’.
For Mshwayisa, life has changed over the years he has lived in this paradise.
He gets disgruntled when talking about how conservation has interfered with
the traditional ways of doing things. However, he is all for tourism taking
off, saying that it will help to bring money.
Seeing the two of them walking hand in hand, the young and the old, sharing
this exquisite place, I agree with Moosa that this part of the world is indeed
paradise.



From the road, a view of a favourite rural tradition, the making of ilala palm wine
A Shembe Church meeting in the shade next to the road

Biker Karl Wardle explores the new route